9 July - 3 August 2000
Henke family: mom and dad, a 12 year old, a 10 year old, an 8 year old
and a 5 year old.
We tented it most of it, and thus had quite a crew, including one sherpa
to take care of our youngest when she didn’t want to walk (she actually
walked most on her own....).
Walking hours’ indications are nett, without lunches and longer rest
periods etc.
Day 1: From KTM to the start (bus) a couple of km’s before Bijayapur
khola (river); up a north-south spur of the ridge that lines the Madi khola
to the South to a camp at Rakhidanda (900 m), a village named after the spur
it straggles (30-45 min.). The way partly follows a jeepable road, partly
the old path shortcutting the road. People work in the rice fields left and
right, and collect stones for road building from the various small rivers
coming down from the ridge. The camp is in a field below a primary school.
The poplar forest that one has to slide down through to get to the village
well is full of butterflies. Just before the camp is a huge old tree on a
plateau lined with a stone slab bench (patti) for resting loads (bari). The
view from here to the South is breathtaking. Pokhara’s Phewa Tal (lake) is
visible. We are in Royal trek terrain.
Day 2: From Rakhidanda up to the main ridge through a lush low
country village area with lots of large bamboo and bananas. We cross the
ridge in the village 15 min. below the Kalikasthan temple at a square with
another impressive tree with patti (1,5 hrs). Down towards the Madi khola
through rice paddies into a lush and leechy forest that gives way to more
paddies above Bainse, a small bazar at the river crossing (750m, 1,5 hrs;
lunch). Across the river begins the day-and-a-half long climb up the massive
Karpu danda (ridge); a 3 hour afternoon starts with a steep section through
rice paddies ending at another old tree patti. From there it continuous
often by way of stone steps through vegetable fields, a scattered village (Tarkang)
and it’s lower secondary school and finally up a scrubby curving spur with
occasional houses and fields to the large Gurung village of Yangjakot. The
camp is on a knoll (1600 m) just east of the village with an absolutely
spectacular 360 degree view. Kitchen building and latrines are constructed
by the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) and are part of the Siklis
eco-trail, as is the offer of a cultural performance by village women that
all trekkers can expect. Yangjakot is the last village for the next week.
Day 3: A hard but rewarding day: The large and interesting village is
followed by 2,5 hours up through scrub jungle, then another good 2 hours of
rhodondendron forest to a lunch spot (2430 m) at a small (one hut) goat and
cow herders camp (goth), all of it very leechy. Water is a serious problem
here (it took our crew more than 1 hour to locate a spring much lower down).
After lunch another 2, much less leechy hours through very beautiful forest
with huge trees and a final very steep section, first along a stream and
then a up a near vertical rocky grass ridge, the path emerges on top of the
ridge (3000m) at a hut for local travellers (dharmshala) next to a shallow
pond. Again the view is breathtaking, including the endless middle hills
ranges as well as Himalayan main range giants Dhaulagiri, Machhapuchhre and
Lamjung. Those who know that they enjoy old majestic wild jungly wet forests
and those who don’t know because they have never been in one but who are
captivated by Tolkien’s magic are sure to have had a good day today.
Day 4: An easy day on top of the ridge. More beautiful forest
interspersed with grassy areas used by herders (karkha’s). We have emerged
above leech country by now. The higher up one gets the smaller the majority
of the rhododendrons become but off and one still encounters an old giant.
If the clouds open up the Annapurna and Lamjung Himals attract attention, if
they don’t, the lushness close by and the views into the Madi khola valley
(with their Gurung villages) on the left and the wild upper Rudi khola
valley to the right more than compensate. A good 3 hours after breakfast a
lone dharmshala on top of a large west and down sloping kharka area provides
a good lunch spot (3300m). Camp is another 1,5 hours further on through more
rhododendron forest (mostly of the smaller gnarled high altitude variety) at
another large kharka with dharmshala and (in our case) several inhabited
goths on the west side of the ridge (3400m). Goats, cows and buffalos, and
the first large fir trees on this trek. The view of the Annapurna range is
grand and down at the other side of the Madi khola Siklis is visible. Today
was very hot, and all of us are sunburned.
Day 5: Today is the last day through forest. From the kharka we move
down among impressive big trees, then across a very narrow ridge with views
towards Siklis on the left and towards the massive Telbrung danda on the
right, and a glimpse of the Himalchuli-bauddha peak range through the
clouds. A steep climb brings us into shrub country and finally to a cow
kharka below Thulo tal (3600 m). One inhabited goth, which is good news for
the porters in this weather. It’s at this camp that we pick up our local
guide, a Gurung shepard, in his 50ies (accompanied by his 16 year old son),
who had crossed the elusive Namun Banjyang (pass) 40 years ago when it was
still used by salt traders. The view into the Midam khola valley at our feet
is blocked by clouds. A relatively short day: 4 walking hours.
Day 6: Rest day. I use it for a six hour exploration to find Thulo
tal, Mist and rain don’t prevent us (I was accompanied by a sherpa
companion) – from finding the lake (4275 m), about the size of Gosainkund.
We (needlessly) climb several ridges, one of which looks like a pass with
stone men, probably used by shepards. Flowers all over the place.
Day 7: From now onwards the trail as indicated on the Schneider
Annapurna map (and all others) is wrong. Today we cross over to the Telbrung
danda, passing the last inhabited (goat) goth on the way. Where we hit the
ridge is a small lake and something that looks like a real pass (3900 m).
From here the path turns north, and goes down again to where we can cross
one of the several streams that lower donw merge to become the Khudi khola.
From there it is up again until we come to Khudi kharka (3700 m), a large
herding area, not yet inhabited. We decide to move on, which means a steep
climb to the beautiful, sheltered Sarke kharka (4000 m); a grassy plateau
area with flowers, hanging in the clouds (Six walking hours).
Day 8: Within 2,5 hours we reach today’s camp: Thurtsu kharka. For
that we have to climb to our first proper pass (4270 m); along the whole
trail we encounter chautaras and it is obvious that, in former times, this
must have been an important trade route. Camp is in the next east-west
Miyardi khola valley, a huge kharka that is one of those locations that
would certainly be used by Milka for a TV spot if they could get a crew up
there (3500 m). With clear weather beautiful views of Manaslu. The kharka
has stone floors for many goths and in August quite a lot of families must
be living up here. A little lower down there is a fairy tale lake. Summer
means we could take a dip. From the upper reaches of the Miyardi khola
valley (towards Lamjung Himal) a trail takes off for Dudh kund. For Gurungs
in August this lake is the purnima mela (full moon festival) spot to be. The
map does not show it. It costs a day to reach from here, and we didn’t try.
Day 9: The day of crossing Namun Bhanjyang starts off crystal clear.
The location of the pass is wrong on all maps I have encountered, including
the Schneider map. The only guidebook that’s right about the Namun is a
German one: Bernard Rudolf Banzhal’s Nepal – Schritt für Schritt (1988?).
Without snow, the pass is not difficult. One crosses the Miyardi khola
(without a bridge at this time of year not that easy but with Sherpa help
quite feasible) and then it is straight up to reach a first pass, then some
contouring to reach the next valley, after which comes another long and hard
climb through rocky terrain. One reaches a ridge after which the trail
levels out again for a short stretch to reach a large chautara, with
countless stone men. We are here at the western side of a bowl which is
dominated at its eastern side by the remarkable rock structure that looks
like a rhino horn from below. From here it is another maybe 150 meters to
the pass (4900 m), a small opening in the wall to the right and west of the
chautara. The path at the other side of the pass is not very good at the
beginning, we need a hand at a place or two, but soon becomes a proper trail
and meanders downwards, back into the green kharka world. We camp at Danphe
kharka (4200 m). It’s a 6,5 walking hours day, hard because of the many
meters up and down.
Day 10: One of the hardest days of the trek is the 1700 meter descent
to the Marsyangdi valley. The first large valley we come to is a dream:
dozens of mules and some horses walk around. The people from Manang bring
them up here for a month or two (unguarded) to feast on the fresh lush
grass. The way down is partly through little rivulets, slippery, steep, and
long. When one can see Temang, it still takes a long time before one
actually can have a drink in that first village after 8 days. Temang used to
be an off the beaten track Tibetan village, but a couple of years ago the
district government decided that the main trail should go via Temang (the
original lower trail via Latamarang became too dangerous because of erosion)
and now it has its first fancy lodge. The two hours before Temang are
through the remnants of what must have been a gorgeous forest. It still is
impressive – which is more than what one can say about the area further
North, close to Chame where the forest virtually disappeared (I’ve trekked
to Manang in 1981 and vividly remember the giants that one encountered just
before entering Chame village) – but logging is obvious. To get to Temang we
had to cross a wild stream which with Sherpa help and ropes was great fun.
Before the crossing, we all were pretty much exhausted, after the crossing
spirits were high again. The lodge keeper in Temang tells us that two years
ago a single Swiss women crossed the Namun from this side with a local
guide, last year one party came from the other. We seem to be a pretty rare
species. From Temang to Koto (where our guide owns a lodge) was an amazing
experience: what a highway, most places would have been passable with a
four-wheel drive. We enjoy the villages. Admire the first Zopjoks. Around
Annapurna territory is beautiful; especially in the Monsoon when you have it
basically to yourself. Today was 8 hours plus walking time.
Day 11: A rest day that we use to visit Chame, wash the kids in the
hot spring, admire the wild and roaring Marsyangdi from close by, shop in
town, eat lodge food (can’t compete with Chandra’s kitchen) and get a close
look at what are Swiss style lodges to me. We meet a couple of trekkers.
Day 12: An easy 7 hour day through the narrow forested gorge of the
Nar khola. In the beginning the gorge is a wood "factory", but soon we start
enjoying this terrain. Large Fir and Pine trees, bamboo, a roaring river, a
winding gorge. The trail is very good with new bridges (used to be
impassable during this time of year because the 25 plus local bridges that
one had to cross did not survive the onslaught of the monsoon; read the
description in the beautiful but unfortunately very rare 1982 Time-Life
ethnography on Nar and Phu: "cloud dwellers of the Himalayas") . The trail
is often cut out into the rock, just before camp it even goes under a
waterfall. We sleep in two-storey Sindenden dharmshala (3350 m).
Day 13: The day starts with a hot 200 m climb to the plateau of Meta
village. The village is not inhabited in the summer, some fields are in use
but many lay to waste. On a clear day, from Meta one has a good view of Kang
Guru – the local mountain that interests mountaineers. The gorge now widens
into a broad valley that changes its appearance dramatically. From a
monsoony, forested gorge we emerge into a dry, rain shadow landscape, with
very different colours, small stunted trees, white dusty limestone trails,
smells of mediterranean herbs and wild garlic. The trail is level, high
above the river, now called Phu khola. Those who have been there comment
upon the area’s likeness to upper Dolpo. At the other side of the valley we
see two rivers going off towards the West. The Nar khola disappears into a
narrow gorge, just a little bit further the Labse khola (it has a trail
towards upper Mustang) disappears into an even narrower gorge, in fact it
disappears into a four meter broad, 150 meter high gorge with a tiny local
bridge across it. Between the two rivers we see a plateau with two Gombas (buddhist
temples) on it (our camp place a few days later). Soon we pass another
winter goat herding village with flat-roof one storey houses (Tsabe), and
just before lunch another deserted village on a plateau. It seems to be one
of the ancestral villages of the Lamjung Gurung (Dzunam). From the village
roof we wonder about the enormous ice fall that comes down from one of the
other Guru peaks to the East. After lunch, it goes up into a large upward
sloping valley, with grassy fields, past a larger deserted village (Tsako),
that used to house 200 to 300 Khampa guerillas (Lakhpa points out the mess
building that he remembers from the time he spent here as a young boy), some
more up, then down to cross a roaring river, up again to cross a small pass
with chorten, across a little side valley, up over another little pass, from
where we see our camp: Kyang (3800 m) village, another settlement only used
at certain times of year. Some houses seem only just deserted, a pair of
Tibetan shoes on the wall, a coat of Blue sheep fur, a pair of woollen
pants. Kyang (and other villages) used to have a lot of Tibetan refugee
inhabitants who have been send back to Tibet, to India, or taken to
Kathmandu or Pokhara by the Nepali government; Looking South the view is
dominated by Pisang peak. An easy six hour walking day.
Day 14: From Kyang the path has been cut into the rock, high above
the river. It is definitely a one-way trail and meeting a Zopjok here would
be lethal. The gorge narrows abruptly here and its walls tower above us. The
path is above the river or in the river bed, we encounter an occasional
chorten or rock painting, a small hermitage at the other side of the river
("the lama stayed there three years, three months and three days..."), an
eagle’s nest clinging to the wall, and then suddenly, the entrance to Phu
territory becomes visible. An incredibly narrow gorge, maybe 100 meters
high, the trail winds up to meet a gateway, then continues level along the
spectacular gorge, with harrowing views into the depths, made more
impressive by the remnants of a former trail, including remains of bridges
("the people of old were like monkeys" was Lakhpa’s comment). Fields and
houses of two summer villages are already visible to the North. The path
crosses a little pass, goes down past a long Mani wall , crosses a bridge,
with two huge chorten, a dilapidated Gomba, and a very long and big Mani
wall. On our way, back blue sheep kick loose rocks from the cliffs above.
Some houses of Phu (4000 m) are already visible, but the splendour of the
village only become evident when one is very close. Behind the village,
towards the North a huge Gomba complex is visible. Only when we enter the
village does it become apparent that old Phu is like a fortress on a rock
with an additional village in a horseshoe shape attached to it. We camp on a
Kodo (a grain) threshing platform overlooking the old part. Spinning women,
churpe (yak cheese) drying in the sun, red peppers, weaving, houses like I
remember from Zanskar. An easy half day: 3,5 walking hours.
I spent the afternoon climbing past one of the other Gombas above the
village, past two other smaller settlements, past an irrigation canal
(another one is visible at the other side of the valley that I have
entered), up the hill above Phu gaon (village) to a height of approx. 4500
meters. The view is breathtaking, 360 degrees, East and North snowy
mountains, moraines, eroded limestone structures (similar to those near
Braga in the Manang valley), West and South rocky mountains, in various very
different colours, black, grey, brown. On the way back I nearly run into 8
blue sheep.
(3800 m)
Day 15: Rest day that we spent visiting a kharka to the North of Phu.
We hire horses, not the best of ideas, but the kids have fun (all except
Piet who suffers from the altitude). The view on the two hour trip North is
fabulous, South: Kang Guru, Annapurna II, to the East: peaks with hanging
glaciers, to the North: the mountains on the Tibetan border, one of them a
modest version of Kailash, and to the West: at the lower altitudes some
"hanging" green kharka valleys, and higher up twisted brown and black rock
peaks, with an occasonal glacier. The further we get the more it looks like
Mustang, and when we reach the kharka it looks like Tibet. Rolling green
slopes, horses, sheep, Yak, Dzo, Zopjok, four families in Tibetan tents, one
totally made of brown wool, two with a woolen roof and sides of thick linen,
and one with sides of tarpaulin. The men (as opposed to the women in
Rolwaling) churn the milk in large yak skin bags (as opposed to the wooden
containers used in Sherpa territory). On the way back we visit the Gomba
complex to the North of the village (there are four Gombas in a reasonable
state of repair in total in and around Phu). The exploration possibilities
here are endless. We only went two hours but there are more kharka’s further
on; It’s a two day trek to the Tibetan border (6000 m); to the East is the
Pangri khola valley also worthwhile visiting; climbing higher ridges to the
West than the one I went to yesterday is another possibility. Endless...
Day 16: A six walking hours plus day brings us (lunch at Kyang) all
the way back to the two gombas between where the Nar and Labse khola merge
with Phu khola: Sate Gomba. Before we manage to leave the village behind us,
lots of sips of chang (beer), throwing of tsampa (flower), and kata’s
(ceremonial shawls) are to be endured. As most of the route is a gentle
downward trail, it is not a difficult day. Having spent two days in Phu, the
empty villages that excited me on the way North have lost their special
charm. I conclude that the order we chose, first to Phu and then only to Nar,
must have been the right way to do it. The last section before our campsite
is again very spectacular. First down towards the bridge across the Labse
khola across an erosion landscape beyond imagination; it starts off like a
dune, then turns into a white sandstone slope of rubble, at parts so narrow
that the trail needed artificial bridges and finally (just below a rock with
an old fort on top) the bridge. I understood that it would soon be replaced
by a modern version (the material had already been flown in by helicopter)
and pity those that come after us and can’t enjoy this beautiful piece of
local engineering. Marjan and I spend at least half an hour marvelling at
it. On top of this comes the spectacular depth of the incredibly narrow
gorge that one looks into from the bridge. The Gomba complex (3500 m)
consists of a new but already dilapidated Gomba (used only once a year) and
a much older Stupa-like building. Lakhpa burns dhoop (incense) bushes (they
grow profusely in this area); above the Gomba are some caves, inaccessible
because of the erosion; we sleep in the upper chamber of the new Gomba.
Day 17: A short and easy day to Nar gaon (less than 3 hours). We have
to climb 600 m but it doesn’t feel that way. On the way up we encounter an
enormous herd of goat and sheep that come down here every morning on their
own for grazing and in the afternoon return to Nar.
We are lodged in the youthclub building above the village (4100 m). I
spend the afternoon exploring the Labse khola (Mustang khola they call it
here) gorge, unsuccessfully try to shortcut on the way back, and have to
climb up the same steep path that brought me down here, but this time
accompanied by a young women, her 10 year old sister and her 8 year old
brother who have been looking after their goats.
Day 18: Rest day with a beautifully clear morning. We climb the hill
behind our lodge and admire Pisang peak, Kang Guru, and towards the West the
Damodar himal that is the border between this area and the wasteland of
Mustang. We go out for a 4 hour visit of the village with Lakhpa, lots of
butter tea, and fried churpe, all the 5 Gombas of the village, each of them
totally different and catering to another lineage. We witness a name giving
ceremony by a Bonpo lama for a just born baby.
Day 19: Today is a hard day, much up and down, our first real 5000
meter pass. A good 7 walking hours in total. We take two horses for the
smaller kids, and are not the only travellers today: a herd of yak, some men
on horses, and a couple of women on foot are on the road too. Locals cross
this pass regularly. The people of Nar and Ngyawal and other Manangi
villages are closely related. Nar horses work for trekkers in Manang, etc.
The trail goes up very gradually, first across rolling grass slopes, then
zigzag into rocky terrain, through the clouds we off and on get a glimpse of
a glacier close by, then over a little pass, past a lake with a chorten and
prayer flags, wet snow, one more jump up and then we are at the narrow Kang
la (5300 m). Unfortunately we had no view. With clear weather the pass and
the way down to Ngyawal must be absolutely spectacular because of the
majestic Annapurna range at the other side of the Marsyangdi valley (lower
down we saw some of it). Soon after the crossing the path zigzags over loose
small rubble that is best negotiated by running and sliding (great fun).
Very quickly one is 600/700 meters lower and enters kharka terrain again.
From there it is a long ridge walk, we get below the clouds and see the
valley floor, Hongde airstrip. Just above Ngyawal (3700 m) the first real
trees since a week, and then the village becomes visible. We stay in a nice
simple lodge (at least compared with valley floor standard).
Day 20: Manang
Day 21: Rest day
Day 22: Thorong phedi
Day 23: Cross thorong la, Muktinath
Day 24: On this rest day, I take a day walk into Mustang. First
Chhaingur village, then wading a river, Krishna and I climb into the
wasteland, hit the first small pass after about 2 hours, and decide to climb
the ridge towards the West (4200 m). The views from here are great, down
upon a village, the valley of the Mustang khola, the valley going West that
has the trail to upper Dolpo, snow peaks to the North of that valley,
Dhaulagiri. We continue for another 15 minutes across a ridge to the North
until we are above a side valley, with a view on another village at the
other side of the Mustang khola valley, the white valley floor with two dry
rivers. On the way back we visit Jhong. With lots of stops a six hour trip.
Very worthwhile.
Day 25: Via Kagbeni to Jomosom
Day 26: Jomosom-Pokhara
In total 26 days, of which two were traveling days, and 7 full rest days:
a very reasonable schedule.
